Monday, October 13, 2003

Mini-Victory

Jee and I went surfing yesterday at Linda Mar. The waves were fairly big (at least by my standards), closing out quickly, and just paddling out was a formidable challenge. Nonetheless, after moving down the beach to a slightly nicer break and having a quick rest, i tried again. I managed to get up on one wave - which is not to say I surfed it. It was more like:

Step 1: paddle, paddle, paddle
Step 2: "oh shit this wave is moving fast"
Step 3: clutch onto board for dear life, while flying towards rocky shoreline
Step 4: realize that I've been riding the wave for a few seconds (while laying down), and figure "what the hell?"
Step 5: try to stand up
Step 6: realize I'm standing, and subsequently fall off the board
Step 7: ride the next wave into the beach, content that I've at least accomplished the preceding sequence of events

I've only surfed Linda Mar in the winters here (Oct-March), and the conditions yesterday were pretty representative of what I've seen. I was encouraged to hear from Jee that the waves in Bolinas are much easier. I should definitetly give it a try.

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